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    Napoli, Part II

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    I really love this place. More from that strange corner of the world which contains all that is glorious and terrible about contemporary human life. The experience was a rich, overwhelming avalanche of color and chaos, grit and verve, crumbling infrastructure and resilient positivity. Most tourists in Italy don't travel south of Rome, or if they do skip right over Naples to Pompeii and the beaches; for that reason I'm including a lot of images (all raw 35mm scans) here. You won't find these alleys photographed much elsewhere.

    ​For a more clear understanding of the machinations of the city's underbelly, I recommend Robert Saviano's excellent and explosive non-fiction text, Gomorrah, (like the Mafia, but larger, more dangerous, and less well known) or the Matteo Garrone's sobering film adaptation of the same. The fact that the Saviano text even exists is something of a miracle.
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    Napoli, Part I

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    I know you came here expecting a story, but I want to share a bit of what I do when I'm not driving the ol' 7. Here are sixty or so images from Naples and the areas surrounding it– a bizarre cocktail of ancient tranquil beauty and by far the most dangerous slums I've gotten away with photographing. There were great people populating the entirety of this spectrum, and the light shone through trees, markets, and decaying buildings without judgment. I endeavored to do the same.

    As you may know by now, my photographs feature no digital enhancement; these are all uncorrected raw negative scans of 35mm. There's a lot more where these came from– look for a similarly sized helping in the next day or two! 

    Hope you enjoy them!
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    Seattle Shines

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    Photo by Holli Margelli.

    Another interview I wanted to share– this time with Holli Margelli, the photographer of holliwithani.com, as well as founder of the Seattle Shines project– you might recognize some of my photographs there. 

    ​Click here for the interview!
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    Heard Him Say

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    "How's it goin'," he said, the twenty-first century version of "hello." Words may change, but intentions hold steady. I was leaving the comfort station at Rainier & Henderson, and we recognized each other on the dimly lit sidewalk. He's a touch shorter than me and likely a touch younger, at the intersection between stocky and thin, normally with a fierce-looking pitbull in tow. Tonight he was alone, a twenty-something African-American man, wearing a turquoise pullover hoodie with his hair tied back in a bun.

    "Hey! Oh hey, man!" I said.
    "Hey, I got mah own place!"
    "What? No way!"
    Look at the glow in his eyes. "Yeah,"
    "I's just' bout to say I hadn't seen you in a while!"
    "Yeah, in Renton. Right offa Maple Valley."
    "Dude! That's awesome!"
    "I haven't been bringin' her out as much." Referring to his pitbull.  
    "I was about to ask,"
    "Yeah, 'cause it's cold, people be thinkin' I'm a bad parent. But I don't have to go… I'm not at the Aloha Inn no more."

    I shook my head in a big grin, arms clasped behind my head. The nights are getting warmer, and my year-round choice of uniform (long-sleeve button-up with sleeves rolled-up, no jacket; accept no substitutes!) felt comfortable in the evening breeze. I was reflecting on his tone as he pronounced "Aloha Inn," the sort of rueful familiarity one wishes to be over and done with. Those of us familiar with Aurora Avenue know the Aloha Inn is no place to retire. 

    "Yeah, so you don't have to go all the way up there– this is so great!"
    "I'm on Benson Road," he exclaimed. "The 169."
    "The 169 yeah,"
    "Right by Fred Meyer–"
    "Fred Meyer's right there, that's perfect. Dude. Congratulations!"

    We pounded fists, and our eyes met again. I was hardly more than a stranger to him, just the friendly 7 driver, but he wanted to let me know he mattered, that he was back amongst the land of the living. His was a voice of both yearning and enthusiasm, a cry from the heart that he was better than the states I've seen him in before, and his new circumstances proved it. Homelessness and the cloaks of invisibility and judgment it brings can make a soul feel hardly human. The words may have been about his apartment and his dog, but the import was larger, richer. 

    ​In his handshake I heard him say: I too have dreams and principled goals, and like you I have expended valiant effort in the name of those goals, and I am afloat again, staying above water in our messy world. I know how to swim. 

    am somebody.
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    Pontifiblabbin'

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    I love listening, but I also love talking to people. A lot. Urban Designer Scott Bonjukian was kind enough to interview me at length for his blog on a wide range of topics. Check out CascadiaCast, Episode 6!
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    Epiphany Exchange

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    Everything about the day was fine, except for this headache. I think you know the type. Imagine a subtle, unending brain freeze, surging every time you exert yourself physically. Something as inconsequential as kneeling to retie a shoe, and the blood is rushing up now, pushing your brain against the insides of your skull. Every move has to become delicate. I still greeted each passenger and called out all the stops, but in a muted manner, remaining genuine but with a definite whiff of the old "phoning through the motions" thrown in. No Oscar for this performance.

    Somehow though, it's enough to get the rapt attention of a teenage youngster sitting a few seats back, absolutely beaming at my all-encompassing warmth toward the folks. He leapt up to the front, sliding in on some sort of astral propulsion. One second he was somewhere back there, and now he's right next to me, with a cheeky adolescent grin stretching out for days. I couldn't help but smile back. He's Caucasian, American, buzz cut angled forward at the front, lanky and limber all at once.

    He proclaimed I must be the youngest, the best, and the coolest bus driver he's ever seen in all his born days, and I downplayed it, deflected this lofty praise, and we chatted about how long I'd been doing it, what I like about it, all the rest. Peppered alongside were colorful passengers wandering in and out, exchanging pleasantries with both he and I. I believe this was new for him. He was headed to friends on Mercer Island, and hadn't been on the 7 before. He felt the electric buzz of engagement, of acceptance.

    Great first up-close interactions with other class and race demographics can be pretty formative, and I was excited to be present. A moment with Melody, a First-Nation woman from Montana, seemed particularly good. He beamed. Wouldn't you, upon realizing the number of people you can feel comfortable talking to has just expanded by a factor of thousands? New doors and ideas were opening as he watched me work the crowd. In the moments between our conversation grew as well.

    "Where'd you go to school," he was asking. Wes was his name. I think he meant high school.
    "Up here at UW. Yeah, I'd drive bus in the morning, then go to class, then go home do homework, then wake up and do it all over again. It was a lot."
    "Wow. That's pretty impressive, working and paying for school all at once. 'Cause I think most people just have their parents pay for it!"
    "Well, I think it's good to not have to work when you're goin' to school, so you can get the whole experience, you know, and plus it's a lot, you get so busy, and then there's the social experience of it. Of course it's good to get the experience of actually paying for your own stuff, but just the you know the time,"
    "True, but when you're busier, you're also more productive."
    "Wow. Whoa."
    "Yeah," 
    "Oh, that's kind of amazing. I've never thought of that."

    He leaned forward. "'Cause I run track and a lotta cross country, and during my off season, I'm so much less productive. My grades just drop!" 

    "Okay wow,"
    "I don't get hardly anything done. People say well, you don't get to be social when you're busy, but I say when you're busy you value your friends–"
    "So much more,"
    "–more, when you only get to see them some of the time."
    "That's gotta be true," I said, "because I totally treasure my friends, and it's probably because well, I don't get to see any of them every single day."

    Pause. I forget what happened here. I think Melody asked us about the Easter Bunny. I was preoccupied with the wisdom of our young friend. The two of them chatted for a moment while I reflected. Time management is something I discuss with friends often, and his ideas were new to me. 

    "How about you," I asked him finally, "what are you interested in?"
    "A lotta tech stuff, I'm a tech guy. And social too."
    "You do both! That's cool. Not everyone does!"
    "Yeah, people get surprised when they find out that I'm into video games,"

    Which triggered a thought of my own, and one I find important to share with young people: "Well you know, it's about being confident. I feel like it doesn't even really matter what kinda person you are, what you're into. As long as you're confident about it,"
    He listened with a pause, thinking. "Confidence, yeah,"
    "Yeah, comfortable with who you are, people are impressed by that. You don't need to be a certain personality type or be into specific stuff for people to like you. It's just confidence. 'Cause then they see you and they're like wow, this person must know something about how life works, they're so confident, so relaxed with who they are, I wanna hang around 'em figure out what their secret is! And all it is is, it's just, confidence. Friendly confidence."
    "Dude, I could talk to you all night!"

    It wasn't until after he left I realized my headache was completely gone. Thank you, Wes. You have no idea how helpful your enthusiasm was– the best kind of contagion, sparking the slumbering ebullience we all possess, energy we didn't know we had. Our smiles towards others can work wonders we'll never know.