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    Here They Come

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    We're headed out to the Valley. I pull up to Martin Luther King Way, across from Franklin. It's a dingy gloom tonight. The dealers are on both sides of the street. Various shapes lumber about in the periphery, shifting figures in front of lights, signs of life at the laundromat and beneath the overpass. A small crowd is waiting at the bus stop, maybe five of them, dark shapes against the darker night. Looks like mostly younger guys, tall and lanky, post-high school or so. 

    Groups of kids are a strange animal. Some years ago on the 7 a cadre of thirty teens beat up a young couple, sending them both to the hospital. Older drivers will remember gang initiations in the back of the 106; the new member would be beat to a pulp, but had to remain silent. This is why some passengers will tell you they never sit behind the articulated section. When I first trained on the 7 I rode one of the late-night trips, and the driver flew past a stop with a crowd of teens waiting. "If you see a group," he said, "don't pick them up. Keep going."

    Pulling into MLK now, I take a deep breath.

    As I open the front doors I'm still waving thanks to a person stepping out the back. "Thank you," I yell back at them. Only takes a second. Then I turn my attention to the guys at front. As soon as they see me they all start laughing. I don't know why, but they're screaming with glee, one slapping his knees, another struggling to keep his food in his mouth.

    "Come on in, gentlemen!" I say loudly, leaning back with a smile. When they hesitate: "don't be shy!"

    Bro Number One pimp rolls on board and offers me a handshake, one stroke and firm. 
    "Ey, one second," says the second, reaching in his backpack for change.
    "Aw, you're cool," I reply, meaning take your time.

    It's hitting me now: all of these guys know me already, and they're happy to see me. Man Three is older, and I recognize his overjoyed face: "heeeyy," we yell together, trying to ascertain the last time we saw each other. I feel like it's been a while, but he reminds me of a moment just earlier this week. "I saw you runnin' by the train station, it was your off day. You had tha shirt on." He's referring to an Others Like Us t-shirt I was wearing, which I learned about through Real Change; I found it fascinating that he noticed. 

    "Yeah, it was another lady driver there that day after you ran past, and we was talkin' about you. She was sayin gooooooood things about you–" several octaves contained in that "good"– "you got respect, bro."
    "No way!"
    "You should know it! People be lookin' up to yo ass, dawg. Talkin 'bout yo' attitude no matter who it is, you always polite and happy, no matter what the route, and, and," more laughter, "she was like, da first time I saw him, is he even old enough to... can he shave? Does his mom know he's out here???"
    "Nawww!"

    The remaining fellows board without incident. I remember a smile forming on one I didn't recognize, his slitted eyes in a quiet grin, taking me in with newfound appreciation.

    "I'm serious, dude," Man Three continues. "She had good words for you, real good words. You're always the best. Listen, I'ma stop blowin' you up though!"
    "No, man, comin' from her, comin' from you, that means a lot! 'Cause you guys know how it is!"

    We wrapped up the conversation and he went to the back to join his buddies. They're hollering to the high heavens back there, but it's okay. I feel safe. They know me. I'm among friends. 
    "Is this yo' phone?" one yells to another, handing up a pink phone from the floor.
    "This doan' look like mah phone," the other replies, as they all collapse in manly giggles.

    A half hour or so later, at Holly, a man with a guitar and long silver dreads steps out, still wearing sunglasses at midnight. I'd seen him the night previous riding the bus back from my art show– the faces you get to know when you don't use the car. This man plays at 88 Keys on Sundays and weeknights ("them comedians get the prime spots, Friday and Saturday"). As he leaves he says, "man, people really love you. Tha's good. Keep doin' what you're doin'."

    Another man expresses largely the same sentiment later on, albeit in what practically sounds like a different language: "Ay yo. You da man, hannlin yo' bidness on da 7. You got it goin' on, bro. Respek.  Hannlin yo bidness on da 7 in the nighttime ow-ah, you be doin' it like it weren't no thang. Sheeeit. Dassit. You got mah respect."

    At Othello the boys in the back deboard, taking time to wave. "Thanks buddy! Love ya!" yells the older one. 

    There was nothing to worry about.
  • Published on

    It's All Happening!

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    Photo by Kristina Moravec.

    Now this is what we call late notice!

    I'm in a show opening July 17th! Yes, Thursday, as in tomorrow! I'm only just discovering this myself. It all came together quite literally, and quite beautifully, in a matter of hours! I'm thrilled at the work by myself and others which will be on display, and at the chance to take part in it all. Thanks to many powers that be, you'll be able to find me there from at least 6:30pm to 9pm– though I'll likely be there as early as 5, and might stay 'til the event's wrapup at 10! Stop by for a chat, and take in some art– I have six new 35mm images there, along with a six-foot hand-drawn colored-pencil triptych!

    Kate Alkarni Gallery is located inside the Seattle Design Center in Georgetown. This event (and its parking lot!) are free. Details, directions and more here.
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    The Glow II

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    At Letitia I put the lift out, saying goodbye to a couple I haven't seen in some years. He's a Vietnam vet with a summer job transporting convicts between different prisons cross-country. She remembers me from the 5 and likes my attitude. They're on their way to the hospital and the bank.

    "Good luck with everything,"
    "Oh, it'll be easy. All I gotta do is activate an ATM card."
    "Oh." I thought it was some sort of trying experience they were heading into. "Piece of cake!" To her I say, in reference to an earlier conversation, "and I hope your infection's gone next time I see ya!"

    A woman's been watching from the chat seat. "Is the next one Mount Baker," she asks. She had moved up to the front at Genessee, calmly, no rush. A rare Caucasian passenger on this corridor, I'm thinking thirties, some sort of European descent, dressed in a ponytail and women's business casual, a trim collection of grays and tailored lines. Demure.

    "We're dangerously close!" I reply. "It's three more stops, if I'm not mistaken."
    "Thanks."
    "Are you going, let's see. To the airport?"
    "No, I'm just getting the 48."
    "Oh. Goin' up to the U District?"
    She nods. "I'm going to UW."
    "That's my school!"
    "Oh, great. I'm going in for an ultrasound today!""Congratulations!!"

    I can see how excited she is. She's brightening up by the moment, opening and lightening up, relaxing into the space. I can't place her accent. Her eyes sparkle with the joy of getting to be herself– we censor ourselves in public sometimes, and she's realizing with me she doesn't have to. 

    "I'm so excited to see my baby. He's already six months old– well, inside, I mean!"
    "That's wonderful. So much to think about. Names, colors... do you know if it's a boy or a,"
    "I do."
    "Have you started thinking about names?"
    "Oh, we already have a name. My husband is good with names. He reads a lot!"
    "Oh, terrific!"
    "I can't wait to see what he looks like!"

    I hesitate a millisecond before speaking, but then I think, why not share. She's sharing. "Yeah, my mom is Korean and my dad is white, and people often say I look either like a boy version of my mom, or an Asian version of my dad."
    She smiles, her laugh rippling into the morning sunshine. "That sounds great! You got the best of both!"
    "Oh, I dont know! I hope so!"
    "Speaking of, I have a friend who is also half-Korean, actually half-Korean and half Jewish. He's from Eastern Europe."
    "Very nice. My friend just went to Romania, the Ukraine, Moscow,"
    "Oh, wonderful." She seems excited to hear about someone traveling to parts of Europe other than Paris and Rome. "I'm from there. Well, nearby, the Baltic States."
    "Oh, excellent. My training is in photography, so I get very excited about traveling!"
    "You should definitely go to the Baltic States!"
    "I will!" I say, pulling up to Martin Luther King Way. 
    It occurs to me as I slow for the red light that I have every intention of doing so.

    "Congratulations again," I say as she's getting off. "You have the glow!" I emphasize the line with a hand gesture, hoping she knows what I mean.
    She looked at me for a moment. In a few short minutes we had reached a space where it felt comfortable to say such things. "Oh, thank you! You too, you do too!"

    I suppose I meant the glow of being pregnant. Sometimes we find people who absolutely radiate vitality– it seems almost reductive to call it positive energy, though I guess that's what it is. They might be pregnant, or engaged, or children, or just those rare souls whose well-being explodes out of them for reasons too large to decipher. 

    A young man once got on my 70 so overwhelmed with joy he rode to the terminal just so we could finish talking about it, parsing it out in words, attempting to solve the mystery. He'd been torn up over the loss of his girlfriend for six months, and today he had a conversation at a "combination tanning salon slash video store," chatting with the owner about the history of the establishment. The owner was pragmatic in a humorous way: people like suntans, and they also like videos. There you go. 

    Something about that conversation, in combination with the act of stepping back outside to the sun shining down on him, had filled the young man with an ecstatic, tangible elation which suffused his entire being, and he felt strangely, randomly freed from his grief, as if alerted for the first time to all the greatness going on around him. The rest of the world had been taking place for the past six months, and now he could see it again. We spent the ride and my break at the terminal trying to capture its reasons for happening now, today. Could we bottle it and summon it at will in the future? Could we live in it always? The answers to such queries were outside the scope of our comprehension. 

    Suffice it to say it was great to live amidst the Glow, talking to Mrs. Baltic States, to live and learn in its presence, coaxing something new out of both of us. She walked over to the 48 stop and I drove up Rainier, spreading the good feeling one person at a time.
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    Smart Man

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    "Next one is Aurora," I announce from the 44 route. "Aurora Avenue, where you can get the E Line. That's the old 358."
    People get on, and people get off. As we pull away, I say, "here we go!"
    I always say something like that. Variations on a theme: "Hang on tight;" "We're movin' out;" "Off we go;" and on occasion, generally upon leaving somewhere like 3rd and Pike, "let's get outta here!" 

    "Here we go" was never intended by me to be funny or endearing or light-hearted, although I'm happy many people read it that way. I started saying this stuff when I began trolleys, and noticed the incredible amount of torque they have. I said "here we go" because I was terrified of people completely collapsing as soon as the bus moved. There's nothing better- not even most cars- at getting up Seattle's steep hills than our trolley buses, and they can fly. I announced "here we go" and the like to let people know they were on a different type of vehicle, which moved differently. I've since realized people fall down on all coach types, and thus announce regardless of what type of bus I'm driving. 

    On the 44 now, and older man comes forward, maybe late fifties but still lithe, gray hair and tanned, hanging on the stanchions.
    "So I'm on a 747, right?"
    "Yeah," I say, phrased as a question, hoping for more explanation. Sometimes I say "yeah" when I have no idea what people are talking about.
    "I'm on a 747 from Anchorage to Seattle, when the pilot comes on– engine's died. Lost the engine."
    "Whoa! Were you losing altitude?"
    "Oh yeah! We're in freefall. No thrust. He restarted the engine in flight."
    "Wow!"
    "Yeah, but the pilot came on, and said all the stuff you're sayin,' 'hang on,' here we go,' all the same stuff you're sayin.' It made me think of it."
    "Oh, right on."
    "But yeah, I'm thinkin,' hang on, hold on tight, this is no problem! I fished in the Bering Sea for twenty-one years!"
    "Must have pretty good sea legs!"
    "Yeah, when you've worked the Aleutian Islands..." I look at his brown eyes and see generations of time. He tells me briefly of a life at sea. Then he says, "I'm sixty-three years old, and I'm goin' up again."
    "You must like it!"
    He shakes his head ruefully. 
    "Why then?"
    I see him rubbing his thumb and forefinger together and it's my turn to shake my head. "Yeah, that'll do it," I reply. "Money has a way of talking."
    "I got colon cancer. I'm goin' up this time and stayin' up there. This' my last time in Seattle."
    "Well, shoot! I'm glad you got on my bus!"
    "Hey, life is good," he said, as we approached his stop ("Here's Fremont Avenue, by the zoo").
    "Have a good rest of the time in Seattle!"
    "Stay happy!"

    The last statement was a surprise. There was an unaffected genuineness to his well-wishing. He didn't wait  for a response, already walking away now, carrying on with the unstoppable business of living life. I watched him for a moment, reflecting. He had every justification, as it were, to be miserable. But he wasn't. I closed the doors and began rolling away. My mind was still on him as I said into the microphone, "that's Phinney Avenue coming up, Phinney, for the route 5."
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    Pride!

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    I offer the following in counterpoint to the more sobering thoughts on violence from last week~

    A woman in her twenties with a terrific, full-bodied Afro boards, all smiles and legs. It's nighttime on Capitol Hill during Pride week. The white girls at the front see her walk past, and one almost falls forward as she hollers out, 

    "Don't ever ruin your beautiful hair!" 

    Meaning, of course, don't straighten it. The atmosphere is one of Bacchanalian revelry, a Dionysian celebration of the marginalized and unfairly disparaged. Tonight judgment is suspended. I drive slowly through throngs of color and line, shapes and faces and skin all around me. Some of us are sober. I smile, listening to the seesawing lilt of inebriated youngsters just behind me. One of the girls calls out,

    "Hey driver!"
    "Hey!"
    "Do you go to like Third and Pike?"
    "I go to Third and Pine... d'you wanna go Third and Pine with me?"
    "Oh my gosh yes. Will you tell us when you get there?"
    "I will so tell you when we get there!"
    "You're so AWESOME!"
    "I wish you rode my bus everyday!"

    The Afro lady steps out the back, and the girl who spoke earlier screams, "bye, Gorgeous!" Amidst the movement of bodies in the back of the bus I see the glimmer of her teeth forming a big smile, embarrassed but excited.

    The girls up front, all in their early twenties, are accompanied by a boy of the same age. Sitting near them is an African-American man of roughly sixty. He and I wear big grins as we listen to the youngsters hold forth:

    "I kinda wanna go on Oprah's show, just so I can get a car or something."
    "You know what'd be funny? If Oprah and T.I. were dating!"
    "Oprah and–"
    "Is that true, what?"
    "-T.I.?"
    "Now that's a power couple!"
    "It seems like just a thing T.I. would do for publicity,"
    "D'you think Oprah's hot?"
    "Oh shit, my rainbow pop's falling out."
    "You'll just have to suck it off."
    "What made you think of Oprah and T.I.?"
    "Suck it off, whoo!"

    Into the mic I tell the crowd, "All right. This bus is turning into a 7. It's time to become a route 7, going all the way to Rainier Beach. If you're going to the Valley tonight, you are on the right bus. Once again, we just became a 7..."

    "That's where we're going, right? Rainier Beach?"
    "No, Alki."
    "Oh. Aren't those like the same?"
    "Slightly different places!" I chime in. "Both great, though!"

    "Who do you like more, Oprah or Rosie?" One girl asks another.
    "I don't like Rosie."
    "Wait, Rosa Parks?"
    "Rosa Parks is awesome," I interject.
    "Rosa Parks represeeeeent!"
    "Can't nobody hate on Rosa Parks," says the older black man.
    "Fuckin' love that girl," says the girl with the collapsing rainbow pop.
    "She's the lady that sat at the back of the bus, right?"
    Me: "No, she sat at the front of the bus!"
    "I like sitting at the back of the bus."
    "Wait, this is Rosie O'Donnell?"
    "No, no,"
    "Totally different Rosie," I quip, and the black man and I can't help but laugh together. It's bordering on an inside joke; clearly Rosa Parks means a lot more to he and I than it does for our rambunctious friends. Or maybe we would just express our regard for her differently. But that makes it all the funnier.
     
    "Yeah nobody hates Rosa Parks," says one of the girls. "She sat down in the front and the cop was like you gotta move, and she was like FUCK THAT!"
    "Yeeeah!"
    "That's it, word for word, I think!" I say.
    "We got da recreation right here! What what!"
    "She was all like fuck that, I ain't movin for shit! You guys better REK-A-NIZE!"
    "That's, I think that's, yeah, the exact transcription!"

    They deboard at the (in)famous McDonalds stop, clearly having no idea where they're going. I lean out the doors, asking them if they know where they're headed. I step out to point out the C-Line stop and explain the way to Alki. This prompts one of the girls to say, "thank you." The other expresses her thanks differently: "You're hot." Then she howls, in pleasure and ecstatic pain:

    "YOU'RE SEXY, BUS DRIVER! YOU'RE SUCH A SEXY BUS...AAAUUGGHH! GOD!"
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    I Am Now Two Years Old

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    Two years ago today I posted the first of these stories, which now number in the hundreds and stem from seven years of bus driving. The story was from a page in a journal which I never intended to share, but there was something about the exchange I very much wanted to preserve. The feeling of joy I knew in those moments was real, and perhaps by writing that paragraph down I might more easily recall an echo of the sensation. 

    Once again, thanks to the good people– that would be you, Erin Lodi and Michelle Dirkse and Virginia Eader, among others– who urged me to share these stories instead of holing them up, and giving me the push for this blog to become what it has! And a further thanks to Owen Pickford and Ben Schiendelman for inviting me into the fold of The Urbanist, bringing my stories to an ever-growing audience.

    Bus driving is a whirlwind. It's the feeling of dipping one's feet into a myriad different worlds, watching and taking part in so many lives and spaces, finding new ways to consider and grow and learn. Here is a collection of days, in celebration of the blogversary, and in an attempt to offer up the experience of multitudes we operators get in just several hours... but most of all I offer the following as a celebration of the people. The blog is ultimately not about me, but about the folks, about how we interact, about ways of thinking.

    --

    Rainier at Walker Street, by the Center Park housing facilities and the 2100 building. A runner sprints up the bus, teenage Latino with aviators and camo pants, slick, he's streaking through time to make it, but wait; he pauses on the second step, body like a dancer, agile, hopping back off the coach to blow out pot smoke before boarding. He stubs out his joint on the cement, and I'm laughing, thanking him for doing that. The eyebrows above the shades smile, his easy grin revealing two rows of small and friendly teeth.

    A dark-skinned immigrant man leaves quietly. Does he speak English? Is his world close to mine? Yes. In his hand is a book by the recently deceased Maya Angelou.

    A butch girl and her lady, kissing under the orange sodium lamps at Seneca, bodies held tightly, close together.

    A man in a wife beater, slapping back at a man attacking him, two men who seem to know each other, fighting amongst the new landscaping on Maynard Avenue, their shouts muffled by the summer leaves.

    I'm passing by the Iglesia La Luz Del Mundo at Rainier and Oregon, cruising toward the zone at Alaska. There's a Latino woman running, no way will she make it, but she's running anyway, moving pretty quickly. I stop for her, feeling generous tonight. Her smile is oceans wide, breathing heavy and happy, raising the space inside another notch.

    In my notes I simply described him as "Red G Playa;" a quarterback-sized man dressed in red walking up from the back at Rainier and Andover. He'd been listening to me discuss my love for driving the 7. He adds to the conversation as he steps out, saying, "I always love it when you do the 7."

    I roll gently down 14th Avenue in Beacon Hill, passing by the International School. A few blocks south and there they are, at home on the overgrown lawn adjacent to the sidewalk– a few Native Americans and others, drunk and high and drifting, behind the tall grass, paraphernalia littered all about them. One of them is Jackie, over there in the wheelchair, and I wave from my passing 36, not sure if I'm making it through their drugged-out haze. In a month or so she'll be in dramatically better shape, on her way to Peters Place on the 7, happy to finally have a roof and a bed.

    Senior East Asian ladies sitting midway back, spelling out the word Safeway together in english. Some giggling is involved.

    Phil, always in the corner of my eye, the guy just shows up everywhere and nowhere, a younger man who panhandles near Pike Place. He showed me photos of his childhood days once. Today he squawks to get my attention, practically a bird call, and we wave large. 

    Arana Wang, local artist, is on the sidewalk. "Arana Wang??" I call out. Yes, it is her! We hug and chat for a red light.

    Myself and a man on the 10, discussing the biography of Douglas Adams, author of the Hitchhiker's Guide series. Adams was a drunk and died young, in his fifties. We're discussing the authorship controversies of the closing book in the series. 

    Anna B on the sidewalk, out of nowhere, another good friend at the 70 bus stop, smiling that smile! Evocative and fresh; imagine the Mona Lisa a few seconds later. Hers is a gaze which has seen many things, but stills revels in the beauty of small moments.

    "Playing Tetris" on the 36– that is, trying to figure out ways of arranging passengers and their walkers, bags, and wheelchairs such that we can all fit in. I'm standing there with my chin on my hand, looking at a wheelchair and some luggage, doing some mental calculations. I'd hauled the suitcase up the stairs, joking, "this thing weighs more than I do!" The man in the wheelchair has a sleek, terrific-looking new vehicle, called the Luggie, I learn. It looks to be the Lexus of mobility devices.

    A lady on the 120: "You're a hero to the planet and the people, every day!"
    A man on the 120: "I like the way you drive, bro. 'Ppreciate it."

    A thoughtful hipster on the 70, discussing a band he used to be in, Meese, and the perils of working in the entertainment industry. We share horror stories of living in Hollywood. With someone else I expound on the long-lasting nature of the trolleys.

    An Islamic family in traditional dress is asking me questions. I'm explaining where to get an Orca card, inwardly marveling at their wonderful faces, so many bright eyes ready to smile.

    11:42 at night on Capitol Hill, and things are pulsing. A full house this evening, lively and ready for the scene. I'm turning onto Pine on an outbound 49, waiting for the people crossing in the crosswalk. Two of them, a couple, suddenly become animated: it's Kristina and Adam, dear friends, out on the town on Friday night! What are the odds? I open the doors and beam at them. Kristina asks if they can hop on for a moment. Of course they can. I'm overjoyed. We ride several blocks together, chatting up the space, sculpting new sides to our respective evenings, connections and smiles livening up the space even further. Several minutes after they leave a woman will come forward with a cupcake, offered by way of thanks for the joyous ride.

    Me, walking by myself, basking in the sunshine at Volunteer Park on a layover, sitting under a tree for nine precious minutes.

    "Shit is deterioratin'," said a man walking by to his lady. I can't agree.