I really love this place. More from that strange corner of the world which contains all that is glorious and terrible about contemporary human life. The experience was a rich, overwhelming avalanche of color and chaos, grit and verve, crumbling infrastructure and resilient positivity. Most tourists in Italy don't travel south of Rome, or if they do skip right over Naples to Pompeii and the beaches; for that reason I'm including a lot of images (all raw 35mm scans) here. You won't find these alleys photographed much elsewhere.
For a more clear understanding of the machinations of the city's underbelly, I recommend Robert Saviano's excellent and explosive non-fiction text, Gomorrah, (like the Mafia, but larger, more dangerous, and less well known) or the Matteo Garrone's sobering film adaptation of the same. The fact that the Saviano text even exists is something of a miracle.